




Towards the end of the trip, Yin and I made a visit to her grandmother's house in the military compounds. We were driven to her apartment by a military chauffeur. What I didn't realize, however is that military personnel are not obliged to follow traffic laws. I soon learned first hand the full extent of this exemption.
We had just merged onto a busy, three-lane highway going between towns. It's China - so there is always traffic. Trucks barreled down the highway, cars swerved between lanes, and motorcyclists weaved through the congestion. We easily blended in with the general forward-moving mass as our driver occasionally blared the horn as a vehicle cut in front of him, or bumped the rear of his car. Yin and I were talking casually in the back seat, when suddenly the driver slammed on his brakes. He had missed the exit. Next I found myself in one of the most surreal and frightening situations I have ever experienced.
As traffic careened around us, our vehicle was at a standstill in the middle of the highway. In all the congested traffic, cars had barely a couple of seconds to see us, let alone react and find space to swerve to avoid hitting our car. I watched terrified, as cars barreled down our lane, blaring their horns and swerving just feet away from the rear of our car. We must have sat there for 3 minutes (which is a heck of a long time to be wonder about your chances of survival) before, (thank heavens!), there was a 10 second break in the traffic. The chauffeur put the car in reverse (may I remind you this is on a three-lane highway) and backed up the one hundred meters to the missed exit.
Back on track, Yin's grandmother continued telling her story, and the chauffeur nodded calmly in response.